Featured Interview
Head Wine Buyer
Sheila Flaherty
The Mercatto Group
SWG: When did you first get interested in wine and which wine made the most lasting impression?
SF: I was preteens when I started in the restaurant industry and I can so clearly remember Billy Munelly coming down to Stratford (where I grew up and worked for years) to train us on wine. His easy approach and ability to vernacularize wine for my sixteen year old self created a pretty natural path for me, although at the time it seemed far trumped by metal shows, skateboarding and dudes.
By my later teens my affinity for wine grew and I loved going over to my neighbours cellar. His dusty old Bordeaux’s were so captivating. It was probably that cellar and the ol’ French wines in it that created the most lasting impression on me.
SWG: Being the wine buyer for Mercatto, what is your philosophy when selecting wines /designing the lists? Do you approach the compilation of each list the same or do you rely on regional differences of each location, please elaborate?
Our philosophy in designing the lists has always stemmed from our focus on keeping it simple, and striving to keep it great. Mercatto functions very much like a family, with four children all of the same parents but with such distinct personalities. Over time I’ve come to figure out what works for some and not for others. With regular tastings and as much knowledge as I can throw their way, each location and the staff in them have come to really embrace the program in very individualistic ways.
Our by the glass selections range from 8-24 and by the bottle selections from 50-400, location dependent. Everything is bought through consignment or private order and the focus has always been on representing all the various regions of Italy, while supporting ethically produced juice in a wide range of ways. The three original Mercatto lists have all been created in the same style, while our Eaton Center location stands a bit apart in having been branded differently. Personally, the most important thing at the end of the day is value. All of our wines are marked up very modestly to make them approachable to all consumers.
SWG: The great thing about pairing Italian cuisine with Italian wine is that there are so many possibilities, what is your favourite pairing?
SF: Without writing a novel the size of War & Peace… one of the first things that comes to mind is sitting down to our 40 day dry aged striploin with a glass of Collemattoni’s ‘04 Brunello that we currently have on the Enomatic. There’s nothing in the world that can bring me back to lunch with the winemaker himself in Sant’ Angelo in Colle like that pairing. The deep rich fruit and vanilla notes of that wine just epitomize what I love in Brunello and throw me back to Italy like nothing else.
SWG: As you know, the latest trend in the Toronto restaurant scene is focused on the cuisine of Italy. Why do you think this is happening?
SF:As I seem to notice in so many respects these days, the urban market is very geared towards supporting local movements. From the 100 mile meal to the slow food movement, all of these current trends in Toronto are so quintessential Italian. The idea of locally sourced, simple, fresh, unprocessed, seasonal ingredients is so fundamental to the way they’ve always ate. It is affordable cuisine that can move through seasons and never become monotonous. Not to mention, in tougher economic times, a great bowl of bucatini all’amatriciana seems a far better bet than a chunk of wagu, requiring a remortgage.
SWG: What do you foresee as the upcoming trends in wine lists/consumption in Toronto?
SF: I think there are two segments of connoisseurs in Toronto these days. There are those that are looking for great wines at modest price points, and those that are willing to shell out more but have very high expectations for what they’re receiving. Consumers are far more schooled than ever in wine and expectations are far greater on sommeliers and wine-o’s in general to create both dynamic and distinct lists while still paying homage to the classics.
I believe Toronto is experiencing a radical transformation right now in both the way it perceives the wine world, and in those that are commanding it. I’m very proud to be a part of a young demographic that can showcase the best the world has to offer in a fun and approachable way.
Moving forward I really believe that the greatest trend in wine lists will be to have much more streamlined and concise lists, with the goal of a perfect balance of both the classics that earned their way onto lists, matched with rare and unique varietals from estates that produce in ethical manners.
SWG: What is the strangest wine request that you’ve ever had from a customer?
SF:Well, I once had someone ask if they could hook up their IV to the enomatic.
Jokes. But one dude did once want his Brunello on the rocks.
SWG: What’s new on the horizon for you?
SF: With the Eaton Center now in full swing and having caught its stride, we are looking to have some fun with the list there. As of November, alongside our Italian selections we will also be offering a select number of local wines that we adore and are thrilled to support. Toronto street is also ballooing with verticals now dating back to the 1970’s and a list boasting over 400 selections. As for me, just movin’ n shakin’.
SWG: What would be your desert island wine?
SF:You can throw me on an island with a case of ’89 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Vigna Rionda any day. Don’t even bother calling the coast guard.
SWG: What do you like to do on your time off?
SF:Not much I love more than just being at my lil’ loft space in the west end, or our family farm north of the city. Cups of coffee, good wine, crosswords, family, records, our dog… all hea
SWG: Thanks very much Sheila!
SF: My pleasure.